I choose the method by root depth and the value of the plant, not by convenience alone. Hand watering is best for new transplants, containers, and anything that needs close inspection because you can see wilt, dry pockets, pests, or runoff while you water. The downside is that people usually stop too early, so it often wets the mulch but not the root zone.
Soaker hoses are a good middle option for vegetable beds, hedges, and narrow foundation plantings. They put water down slowly and are easy to move, but they should be tested for even coverage because the first few feet can water differently than the end of the line. I like them under mulch, not on top of bare, hot soil.
Drip lines are the best choice for established beds, drought-tolerant landscapes, and places with watering limits because they deliver repeatable water directly to the root zone with less evaporation. In hot climates, including South Florida, that consistency matters more than a quick daily sprinkle.
The single schedule habit that reduces stress most is watering less often but long enough to reach the active roots, then checking soil moisture before the next cycle. I use early morning watering and group plants by need: new plants get separate short checks, established shrubs get deeper cycles, and drought-tolerant plants are allowed to dry slightly between waterings. A cheap rain gauge or tuna-can test also keeps the schedule honest because irrigation minutes do not always equal water in the soil.