10 Surprising Gardening Experiments That Changed How I Garden
Gardening advice often comes from trial and error, but some techniques produce results that completely change the way plants are grown. This article explores ten unconventional approaches—from watering schedules to soil amendments—that have proven surprisingly effective in real-world gardens. Insights from experienced horticulturists and gardening professionals help explain why these methods work and how to apply them successfully.
Water at Dawn for Stronger Growth
I am not a morning person, so when I first started gardening, I used to water all my plants in the evening to get a few extra minutes in bed. However, some of them ended up getting fungal diseases, including brown patch. This made me question whether evening watering was the best choice for my plants, so I decided to carry out an experiment.
I divided them into two groups, with one group being watered in the morning, and the other in the evening. After a month, the morning group stayed healthy and didn't develop any fungal diseases, which wasn't the case for the evening group, and some of my previously healthy plants ended up suffering from a pest issue.
I decided to do more research on the subject and found that watering plants in the evening increases the risk of fungal diseases as the foliage and soil stay wet overnight, creating a damp environment that's perfect for them. Pests, such as slugs, are also attracted to damp conditions.
As a result, I have now switched to watering my plants in the morning and they have been much healthier since. I also ended up getting more crops from my fruiting plants than when I watered them in the evening.
Build Spiral Beds to Fuel Harvests
I experimented with Crop Circle Farms spiral gardens for beans and ended up harvesting thousands of pounds for community food banks. That experience showed me how a simple layout with the right irrigation system can boost yield and even spark volunteer enthusiasm. Since then, Crop Circle Farms has created a 'farm in a box' system available for larger spiral plantings that help to maximize productivity, reduce water and labor use and draw people into the garden. Great for a small farm or community garden.
Apply Lime to Revive Tomatoes
After two years of poor tomato yields, I spread lime across the entire garden and tilled it deeply into the soil. The next season the tomatoes were the best I had ever grown. It showed me how much correcting soil conditions can change outcomes, so I now look to soil health first when troubleshooting.
Install French Drain to Rescue Roots
My surprising gardening experiment was dealing with drainage in a heavily compacted clay soil area, which is essentially the same structural problem we face on a flat roof with poor runoff. The soil was holding water like a cheap, flat roof membrane, drowning the roots and killing the plants every rainy season. We initially tried adding massive amounts of organic matter, which is the equivalent of adding thin layers of flashing—it helps, but it does not solve the root structural flaw.
The hands-on experiment was to abandon traditional tiling methods and instead install a small French drain system beneath the garden bed, specifically using coarse, aggregate gravel layers and a perforated pipe sloping away from the bed. The surprising result was not just that the plants survived, but that they thrived because the root systems developed deeper and stronger. By enforcing immediate, perfect sub-surface drainage, we relieved the roots of the stress of water saturation. The initial effort of digging out the heavy clay was substantial, but the long-term structural integrity of the bed was secured instantly.
This experiment permanently changed my view on all structural systems, whether soil or roof. I learned that you cannot fix a fundamental drainage problem with superficial applications; you must commit to the simple, hands-on solution that addresses the deepest structural flaw first. Now, on every roofing job, I emphasize the hidden underlayment, ventilation, and runoff plan as the non-negotiable foundations for quality, because the best way to ensure long-term integrity is to be a person committed to a simple, hands-on solution that perfects the hidden structural basics first.
Let Microclimates Guide Plant Placement
Back in 2016, I tried something unconventional--I planted perennials in what seemed like totally wrong spots. Put hostas in a sunnier area than recommended and stuck some black-eyed susans in partial shade. I expected half of them to die, but honestly wanted to see what our Ohio soil and microclimate could really handle.
The surprising part? About 60% of those "misplaced" plants actually thrived, just with slightly different growth patterns. The hostas developed thicker leaves and the black-eyed susans bloomed later but lasted longer into fall. I learned that plant labels give you guidelines, not absolutes--your specific property conditions matter way more than generic zone recommendations.
Now when I design landscapes for clients in Springfield, I spend way more time analyzing their actual yard conditions--sun patterns throughout the day, drainage spots, wind exposure--rather than just following textbook placement. We'll often do test plantings in one section before committing to a full design, which saves clients money and gets better long-term results.
This approach completely changed how we handle "difficult" yards. Instead of forcing a pre-made design onto every property, we let each site tell us what wants to grow there. It takes more patience up front, but our plant survival rates jumped from around 75% to over 90% after year one.
Base Frequency on Moisture Levels
One gardening experiment that delivered unexpected results was switching from a fixed watering schedule to soil moisture based watering. Instead of watering by the calendar, moisture levels were checked before each session. Healthier plants followed with deeper root systems and fewer issues with rot or pests. Growth became more consistent even during hotter weeks.
That lesson carried over into how routines are approached at RGV Direct Care. Fixed schedules are convenient, but they do not always reflect real needs. Responding to actual conditions produces better outcomes. In the garden, that meant less water and stronger plants. In practice operations, it reinforces the value of data driven decisions over habit. The experiment changed gardening from maintenance to observation, which made results more predictable and resilient over time.
Try Wheat as Protective Mulch
One gardening experiment that surprised me was using wheat as a living mulch around my tomatoes.
I honestly expected it to be a problem. I assumed the wheat would compete too much or stunt the tomatoes. Instead, it did the opposite. It kept the soil shaded, held moisture better during the heat, and seriously cut down on weeds. Once the wheat got tall enough, I cut it down and left it right there as mulch.
What I learned is that plants don't always compete the way we think they will—timing matters a lot. Used intentionally, the wheat actually protected the soil and supported the tomatoes instead of hurting them.
It changed how I look at cover crops or living mulches in my vegetable gardens. I think a lot more about soil health and letting plants work together instead of trying to keep everything in its own row.
Favor Consistency over Constant Attention
One spring I tried watering less instead of more, and it felt odd because everything tells you plants need constant care. Funny thing is I set a simple schedule and stuck to it, even after long days at Advanced Professional Accounting Services when I wanted to fuss over the pots. Short pause helped. Later the roots grew deeper and the plants looked sturdier, which were abit surprising given the lighter touch. Sometimes stress builds strength. I learned that consistency matters more than attention. Not sure why but treating the garden like a system instead of a rescue mission changed everything. Now I plan first, then step back and let things grow on their own.
Sort Herbs by Hydration Needs
One gardening experiment that surprised me was testing how much healthier herbs grew when I grouped them by moisture needs rather than by aesthetic layout. I used to design beds based on how good combinations looked together, but I kept seeing inconsistent growth—especially with basil, thyme, and rosemary sharing the same space.
Last season, I separated them into micro-zones: basil with other high-moisture herbs, and rosemary and thyme in a drier, more porous section. The difference was dramatic. Basil doubled its leaf production, and the woody herbs developed thicker stems and far better fragrance because they weren't being overwatered.
What I learned is that watering inconsistency—not soil or sunlight—was the root cause of most of my previous herb problems. Grouping plants by hydration needs makes your entire garden easier to maintain and far more resilient.
It completely changed my gardening approach. Now, before planting anything, I organize by water profile first and design for beauty second. The garden still looks great, but everything grows stronger with far less intervention.
Albert Richer, Founder, WhatAreTheBest.com.
Line Trays with Newspaper for Ease
My best gardening experiment is to use newspaper at the bottom of seed trays and pots, which I trialled during my 'Gardening without plastic' series on YouTube and my gardening blog. I was on a mission to ditch single use plastic from my gardening to be more carbon neutral and was getting frustrated with compost drying out too quickly in seed trays and terracotta pots. I took an experiment by lining them with a few sheets of old newspaper and the results where urprisingly good!
Not only did it keep the compost from drying out nearly as fast, but when it came time to transplant the seedlings, the whole cleanup was dead easy. The newspaper had broken down just enough that I could tip everything out, separate the roots without faff, and the trays were clean in seconds rather than caked with dried-on compost. It made cleaning up after each summer's propagation so easy.
It's completely transformed how I approach seed starting now. I always line my trays and pots with a layer or two of newspaper, especially for those thirsty seedlings that need consistent moisture. Plus it's free, it's recycling something I'd bin anyway, and it keeps my plastic-free gardening actually practical rather than just aspirational. Happy to provide more detail or some pictures if you need?
