Michael, welcome to Best of Home & Garden! Could you tell our readers a bit about yourself and your journey to becoming a gardening expert?
Thank you for having me. My path into tree care started early in my career when I was assisting with admin at a construction company after school. Trees were often treated as obstacles and problems to the bigger development projects—something to be trimmed, cut down, or worked around.
I had never really considered trees that way before, and it didn't align with how I felt about them, but I was young and didn't really understand the complexities of urban development or anything else. That led me to formal training in forestry, arboriculture, and environmental management while working hands-on in the field.
Over time, I realized that trees can't be separated from the broader landscape. Their placement, health, and long-term impact are just as much about gardening, soil health, and landscape planning as they are about tree care itself. That's why I co-founded Vista Tree Management—to bring a higher level of professionalism, ecological awareness, and technical precision to tree care in urban environments.
Lately, I've been expanding my expertise by working toward a Red Seal Horticulturist designation. Many people see trees as separate from gardening, but the reality is they define how outdoor spaces function over time. A beautifully designed garden might look perfect today, but if the trees are placed poorly or the wrong species is selected, it won't last. Trees affect light levels, soil conditions, and how the rest of the plants in a landscape thrive.
Whether I'm preserving century-old trees in an existing garden or helping select species that will complement a landscape for decades to come, my focus is always on creating harmony between trees and the spaces around them. For me, tree care isn't just about pruning or removals. It's about understanding how trees interact with their environment—how they shape gardens, urban spaces, and entire ecosystems.
A well-placed tree adds shade, privacy, and biodiversity, but it also brings longevity and resilience to a space. My work has always been about ensuring trees don't just survive but thrive as part of a bigger picture.
Your background sounds fascinating! Can you share a pivotal moment that solidified your passion for gardening and tree care?
There’s a moment that stands out more than any other. My first "test day" working on an arborist crew in Toronto was on a massive, historic elm tree—a double-stemmed giant, towering 100 feet high on a sweeping estate in North York.
At that point, I had only been climbing for about six weeks. This was different. The job depended on whether I could handle it, and the stakes were high, both for me and for the tree. It was windy that day, and I remember feeling the sway of the tree beneath me. We were installing cables and a brace through over a meter of solid wood to reinforce and preserve it. It was the first time I used large power tools in a tree, and the experience was both nerve-wracking and exhilarating.
Nick Ramirez, an exceptional climber and arborist, guided me through the process. I focused, followed his lead, and by the end of the day, I had proven myself. They offered me the job. But it wasn’t just about passing a test. What stayed with me was the realization that we had just saved a piece of Toronto’s living history. Large trees like that are rare now, and they won’t be coming back. The city’s conditions have changed too much in the past century—soil compaction, pollution, urban development—all of it makes it harder for trees to reach the size and longevity they once did.
That day, high in the canopy, I understood something fundamental about arboriculture: it’s not just about trees in general, but about each individual tree and its place in the landscape. Unlike forestry, where the focus is often on large-scale ecosystems, arboriculture is about preserving specific trees that have stood for generations and ensuring they remain for future ones.
That elm was more than just a tree. It was a landmark, a piece of the past woven into the present, and it was up to us to ensure it had a future. That’s what arboriculture is to me, and why I do what I do.
Speaking of tree care, many of our readers are interested in cultivating their own gardens. What's the most common mistake you see new gardeners making, and how can they avoid it?
The biggest mistake I see—whether it’s homeowners, gardeners, or even landscapers—is treating trees like shrubs, assuming they can be shaped and pruned however they want without consequences. People focus on controlling size or aesthetics, but without an understanding of tree biology, they often do more harm than good. A lot of this comes from misconceptions about pruning.
Gardeners are used to cutting back perennials, shaping hedges, or managing fruit trees, so they assume the same logic applies to larger trees. It doesn’t. Trees don’t heal like people do. When a cut is made, they don’t "heal" over the wound—they only seal it off while remaining vulnerable to decay. The wrong cut at the wrong time can shorten a tree’s lifespan, weaken its structure, or invite disease and pests.
One of the most damaging practices I see is over-pruning or topping—where people aggressively cut back a tree’s canopy to control its height. It’s often done with good intentions, but it’s one of the worst things you can do. A tree’s leaves are its energy source, and removing too much at once forces it into survival mode. It responds by sending out weak, fast-growing shoots that make it even more unstable over time. I’ve seen beautiful, mature trees destroyed this way simply because someone wanted to “trim it down.”
The best way to avoid this mistake is to think long-term and understand what a tree actually needs to thrive. Proper pruning should enhance a tree’s structure, not fight against it. This means: Knowing when to prune—different species respond best to pruning at different times of year. Understanding natural growth habits—forcing a tree into a shape that doesn’t suit its species will only lead to stress and poor health. Prioritizing selective pruning—removing only what’s necessary to improve airflow, remove dead or weak branches, and maintain structural integrity.
The same goes for planting trees. People want fast-growing species without realizing that many of those trees—like silver maples or poplars—become weak and structurally unstable with age. Others plant too close to houses or pathways, setting themselves up for future problems when roots or branches start causing damage. Tree care isn’t just about what looks good today—it’s about planning for 10, 20, or even 100 years from now. If gardeners want to incorporate trees into their landscapes, the best thing they can do is start with the right tree in the right place and commit to maintaining it properly over time. A well-placed
That's great advice! Now, let's talk about soil. How important is understanding your soil type for successful gardening, and what's one simple test readers can do at home?
Soil is the foundation of every successful garden, but most people overlook it. They choose plants based on appearance or function, without considering whether their soil can actually support them. Understanding soil type is essential because it determines drainage, nutrient availability, and how well plant roots can establish.
Here in Toronto, our native soil is mostly clay-based, which means it holds water for a long time and can become compacted easily. This can be great for moisture-loving plants but can cause serious problems for trees or perennials that need well-draining soil.
However, soil types vary dramatically even within a single city, and gardeners need to understand what they’re working with in their specific yard before planting. A simple way to test soil at home is the water test: Dig a hole about 12 inches deep and wide. Fill it with water and let it drain completely. Refill it again, then time how long it takes to drain. If the water drains in under an hour, you have sandy or well-draining soil. If it takes several hours or more, your soil is likely clay-heavy and retains water. If it drains somewhere in between, you likely have a balanced loam, which is ideal for most plants.
Beyond tests, you can feel the soil to get a sense of its composition: Clay soil feels smooth, sticky, and heavy when wet. It forms clumps easily and dries into hard, cracked surfaces. Sandy soil feels gritty and loose. It won’t hold its shape when squeezed and drains very quickly. Loam soil feels soft and crumbly—it holds together when pressed but breaks apart easily. This is the ideal mix of sand, silt, and clay.
By knowing their soil type, gardeners can make better planting choices and adjust their soil as needed. Adding organic matter like compost improves drainage in clay and helps retain moisture in sandy soil. Mulching and proper watering techniques can also help balance soil conditions over time. No two yards are exactly the same, so the best thing gardeners can do is start by observing and testing their soil before planting. A little knowledge up front can save a lot of frustration—and struggling plants—down the road.
Soil health is indeed crucial. Shifting gears to plant selection, what factors should gardeners consider when choosing plants for their specific climate and garden space?
The biggest mistake I see people make when choosing trees, shrubs, or hedges is forcing the wrong plant into the wrong space. They pick something because they like how it looks in a nursery or in someone else’s yard, without considering whether it will actually thrive in their soil, climate, or the long-term conditions of their garden.
In Toronto, this problem is especially common. The city’s soil is mostly heavy clay, which means it holds moisture and compacts easily. In summer, it dries rock-hard. In spring and fall, it stays wet for long stretches.
That’s why so many people struggle with things like Japanese maples, rhododendrons, or even certain cedars—they aren’t built for soil that cycles between extreme wet and dry. They can survive, but only with constant care, amendments, and ideal placement.
This is why understanding the growing conditions of your space matters more than the plant itself. If you have a narrow urban backyard, a towering, fast-growing tree is going to create problems down the road. If your hedge sits in full sun with no wind protection, some evergreens will brown out in winter from sunscald and dry winds. And if you want a low-maintenance garden, planting something that constantly fights your conditions is going to be frustrating.
I’ve seen this firsthand with homeowners who plant cedars in open, exposed areas, thinking they’ll grow into a perfect privacy screen. The first winter, the tops dry out and turn brown. By the third winter, half the hedge is struggling. A hedge like beech or yew, which holds up better in exposed conditions, would have been a smarter long-term choice.
On the other hand, when a tree is placed well, it becomes effortless. I’ve planted Japanese maples tucked into protected spaces, where they get just enough sun but are shielded from winter winds, and they thrive for decades. I’ve also seen them planted in full exposure with no wind protection, where they struggle year after year, their delicate branches snapping under ice or drying out in the cold.
The best advice I can give is to work with your site, not against it. If you have dry, compacted soil, choose something that can handle it. If you have a wet spot, plant something that thrives in moisture. Instead of trying to control a tree or hedge through constant pruning and care, plant something that will naturally grow into the space without a fight. A well-placed tree makes a garden feel effortless. A poorly placed one turns into endless maintenance.
It's amazing how plant choices can make or break a garden. Many readers are also interested in sustainable gardening practices. What's one eco-friendly technique you'd recommend for conserving water in the garden?
Mulching is one of the easiest and most effective ways to conserve water while protecting your plants. A layer of organic mulch—like shredded bark, wood chips, or leaf compost—helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and prevent compaction, which is especially valuable in Toronto’s heavy clay soil. Mulch reduces watering needs significantly and keeps roots cool during hot summers. However, it’s important to apply it correctly.
Avoid mulch “volcanoes”—piling mulch against tree trunks traps moisture, leading to rot and attracting pests. Instead, spread it evenly in a 2–4-inch layer, keeping it a few inches away from the base of the tree or shrub. Also, be cautious with black mulch in full sun, as it can absorb heat and damage sensitive plants. Done right, mulching not only conserves water but also improves soil structure and feeds the soil as it breaks down, making it one of the most valuable eco-friendly practices in any garden.
Water conservation is so important, especially in drier climates. Now, for those dealing with pesky pests, what's your go-to approach for natural pest control in the garden?
For trees, natural pest control is best achieved through integrated pest management (IPM)—a combination of cultural practices, targeted treatments, and natural predators that control pests without harming the surrounding environment. Specific pests, like spider mites on cedars or aphids on beech trees, are common in Toronto and can wreak havoc if left unchecked, but they’re manageable with the right approach.
Cultural practices are your first line of defense. Healthy trees are far less susceptible to serious infestations. Proper pruning to improve airflow, managing soil health, and ensuring trees aren’t stressed by drought or poor planting conditions is key to prevention. Removing and disposing of infected leaves is also critical. For example, trees affected by tar spot on maples or apple scab on crabapples can re-infect themselves if fallen leaves are left in place, allowing fungal spores to overwinter and spread the following season.
When pests do appear, natural predators are an excellent option. Ladybugs and lacewings are highly effective at controlling aphids, while predatory mites are used to combat spider mite outbreaks on cedar hedges, especially during hot, dry summers when they’re most active. Introducing these beneficial insects can restore the natural balance without disrupting other species.
For saplings and young trees, horticultural soap is a selective treatment for soft-bodied pests like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. It works by breaking down the pest’s outer layer, killing them without leaving harmful residue. It’s a safe option when applied during cooler parts of the day to prevent leaf burn.
Natural pest control is definitely gaining popularity. Lastly, what's your favorite aspect of gardening, and what advice would you give to someone who's just starting out on their gardening journey?
My favorite aspect of gardening is how it allows you to build a long-term connection to the landscape, especially through trees and larger plants that evolve over decades. There’s something deeply satisfying about planting a tree or shaping a hedge, knowing it will grow into something far bigger than what you see today. Trees, in particular, bring structure, shade, and history to a space. Caring for them is a way to leave a lasting mark on the environment and create a space that will be enjoyed for generations.
For someone just starting out, my advice is to start with the right tree in the right place. Take your time to understand your site—its soil, light conditions, drainage, and exposure—before planting anything. Choose trees and shrubs that naturally fit your space rather than ones that need constant care or control to survive. Avoid fast-growing, weak species and instead, invest in slower-growing trees that will stand the test of time. Most of all, be patient. Tree care and gardening are long games. The best landscapes take years to mature, but the process of planting, learning, and tending is what makes it truly rewarding. Pay attention, and the trees will teach you what they need.
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us, Michael! Your insights and tips are incredibly valuable to our readers at Best of Home & Garden.
Thank you; it was a pleasure!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Is there anything else you'd like to add?
If there's one thing I'd leave readers with, it's that trees are long-term investments, both for your landscape and the environment. Whether you're planting a sapling or caring for a century-old oak, it's always worth taking the time to understand what they need to thrive. A healthy tree doesn't just improve your garden—it shapes the space for decades, providing shade, beauty, and habitat. And if you're ever unsure about a tree's health or how to care for it, don't hesitate to ask a professional. Proper care early on can save years of headaches later. Gardening is a process of learning, observing, and adjusting over time, and that's what makes it endlessly rewarding.
